Route Grooves In Legs
This is by far the most complicated step of this project, but it is also optional. Routing grooves in the legs to accept the floating panels will give extra room for expansion/contraction and also a cleaner look. Each leg gets a different set of grooves, so it is very important to pay attention when laying out and marking each leg. I will break this up into sections in the next several steps. Using a tool like the Kreg Multi-Mark ensures consistent layout. All of the grooves are inset from the edge by 5/8 and are routed to 3/4 deep. The length varies by the size of the panel. Refer to the Extras section for more detail. It is a good idea to mark the top and front of each leg and number them to avoid confusion as you go.
Adding The Shelf Slats
Now that your Shelf Slats are cut to match the distance between the table legs, dry fit them in to place. Place the outer slats first to be flush with the Stretchers, then fill in the rest in between. You will need to leave roughly 3/16 of an inch in between each slat. This obviously does not have to be perfect. Once you have them in place, it’s time to screw them down. You will want to screw down the Shelf Slats to the Supports with the 2 inch deck screws. It is best to drill pilot holes with a countersink drill bit. When complete, the bottom shelf should look like this.
Cut The Tongues On The Rails
The rails are cut 1-1/2 too long to allow for the tongues that will seat in the grooves that we just cut in the stiles. The tongues are also cut at the table Saw with a 1/4 dado blade. The blade height is set even with the bottom of the groove with the rail on its side. The fence is set 3/4 from the left side of the blade. Using a miter gauge set to 90°, make several passes to clear out the waste then roll the board 180° and do the same on the other side. You will be left with a tongue that is 1/2 wide and 3/4 long. It should fit perfectly in the groove. Using a test piece allows you to dial in the table saw settings for a perfect fit. Repeat on the other end of the stile. Click Link 3 in the Extras section for a great video.
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Cut And Attach Cleats
Cleats are use to support the cabinet floor boards and the grill platform boards. At the table saw, rip 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 cleats from 2x4s and cut them to length per the cut list. The two long cleats are mounted on the front and back long lower rails inside the cabinet, and a short cleat is mounted on the right side. The remaining short cleats are mounted on the middle front and back short rails to support the grill platform. All cleats are mounted 3/4 below the top of the rails so the floor boards will be flush with the top of the rails. Use the Kreg Multi-Mark to easily transfer this measurement. Clamp the cleats in place and then pre-drill and countersink for 2-1/2 deck screws every few inches.
One Large & One Xl Green Egg Or Kamado Joe
The second set of double big green egg table plans I have available bit the combination of one Large Sized Kamado and one XL Sized Kamado smoker. So, you can choose any large Big Green Egg or Classic Sized Kamado Joe and pair it with an XL sized Big Green Egg or Big Joe Kamado Joe. This is the table I will be building soon for my own backyard, as I have always wanted an XL Green Egg. You can purchase this plan set below.
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Xl Big Green Egg Table
Video-May 8, 2020
The only thing I love more than woodworking is barbecue and my favorite way to cook it is on a kamado grill. After I got my XL Big Green Egg, I just had to build a stand worthy of it. Made from Sapele, this stand is beefy enough to take the substantial weight of a large ceramic grill and then some. The cloud lifts in the rails hint at Greene & Greene influence and take the humble BGE Table to a whole new level. I designed the table specifically for an XL Big Green Egg but you can certainly adapt it to any size or brand kamado you like. I also made sure the stand is compatible with the protective covers Big Green Egg makes for their own tables. If you want to make your own XL Big Green Egg Table, check out our plan and templates.
Adding The Short Aprons And Supports
I like to do this step with the table upside down. Join the Short Aprons to the front and back constructed in Step 3. Make sure your pocket holes are facing to the inside of the table in order to conceal them. Finally, join one support in the middle. This should go in the middle of the table. There should be 25.5 inches between the edge of Short Apron and the edge of Support as shown below. Note: the placement of Support here is important as there must be room to cut the hole for the Big Green Egg later.
Now add the remaining 3 Supports to the Stretchers as shown. The exact location of the inner Supports does not have to be precise, but you can leave about 14 inches between each. Remember to face pocket holes in to hide them!
Now that Step 4 is complete, you can flip the table back upright. It’s time to add the shelf and top!
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Siding Installation And Finishing Touches
After the countertop was mounted I installed 3/16 tongue and grove siding in a vertical orientation for a modern look on all 3 sides. Then to finish things off, I custom cut 1×4 and 1×6 cedar material to trim out the front framing of the table. This part is optional, but makes the table look real sharp.
All of these details can be found in my table plans for the Large or XL Green Egg. I have sold hundreds of table plans and have received very good feedback from costumers on the details and information found in the plan sets. All plan sets have full dimensions for every single cut needed and complete lumber and hardware lists. I am confident these plans will save you time and money. Plans may be purchase below for the Large or XL egg. If you are not sure which one to buy, I sell all of them packaged together for one low price. .
Cut The Parts For The Base
We will cut all the base frame parts first. Cut the legs from the 4x4s. You will need 6 at 30-1/2. Next, cut the 14 short rails from 2x4s at 18. We will need 4 long rails, also from 2x4s, at 27-1/2. These are all the parts needed for the frame of the base. I cut them at the miter saw. Trim one end first for a square cut, then use a stop block to make sure all subsequent cuts are equal. *Note: The parts list indicates actual dimensions of the 2×4 and 4×4 material 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 and 3-1/2 x 3-1/2, respectively.
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Inexpensive Strong Green Egg Table
Technically, the main image shows that we didn’t actually use a Green Egg, but another brand like it. But all ceramic grills like this will probably be called a Green Egg no matter what, just like we’ll always call all tissue paper Kleenex.
The main structure of this piece can also be used for so much more than just something to hold a grill. It can be made into a workbench, a patio counter, an island, … the list goes on. The price of this thing was also very reasonable. I think all the materials were under $150. I mainly used cedar, which is almost 98% of the entire project, the other pieces were a few screws and some urethane to seal it up. Cedar is a really good outdoor wood. There are a number of woods that hold up really well outdoors, cedar, cypress, redwood and teak to name a few. Cedar is the most readily available since it’s at most big box stores.
Xl Big Green Egg Table Plans
If you want to build a beautiful XL big green egg table, these premium plans with step by step 3D diagrams and instructions will help you save time, money and get the job done in a weekend. The plans are designed with efficiency in mind, so you won’t waste materials.
This table is built on a sturdy 2×4 framing and it features a shelf that supports the weight of the green egg, and a tabletop with a circular cutout. You can adjust the size of the cutout to suit the dimensions of your green egg. The table also features caster wheels, so you can move it on your back patio.
This is a simple project that is beginner friendly. In addition, just a few common tools are necessary, so you don’t need a fully equipped and fancy workshop to start making projects!
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Install Magnetic Door Catches
Simple magnetic catches are perfect for keeping the doors latched securely in place and can be found in many finishes to match the rest of the hardware you choose. All of the hardware on this table is an oil-rubbed bronze finish. To install, hold the catch on the cabinet floor so it Butts up against the back of the door when it is fully closed. Mark for screw holes, pre-drill, and attach the catches. Then mark the hole location in the catch plate on the back of the door while it is still attached to the magnet. Mark, pre-drill, and attach the catch plate to the door.
Green Egg Table Options
- Utensil Hanger: this option is designed to accommodate towels, tongs, spatulas, Etc…
- Bottom Accessory Shelf: this option is designed to accommodate your lump charcoal and cooking accessories. It has a live tubular roller bedplate for easy access
- Paper Towel Holder & Eggniter Holster: we make bolt-on accessories for our Green Egg table designs to accommodate your cooking needs
- Removable Shelf: this option is designed to accommodate a cooler or our Mobile Carriage Unit on the Large and X-Large Egg Table sizes. The removable shelf comes with a matching sealed hardwood top or one of our many metal finishes. It mounts on either end of our all-aluminum table frames for a left-hand or right-hand world with no tools or fasteners needed.
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Affordable Big Green Egg Table
The green egg tables, in market prices, cost you an arm and a leg. So, why not build your own at home without breaking the bank. Get crafty with the 1×6 cedar wood boards, can live long at outdoor, to construct the table design with a built-in green egg table holding. Add a bottom shelf to allow smart storage, install wheels for easy dragging and pushing. imgur
Inexpensive And Strong Green Egg Table
For summer BBQ parties, the green egg table is a big must-have. It is super expensive too to buy from the market. So, save a lot of money by building a green egg table at home. Build this given model using cedarwood boards like 2x4s. The project will cost you under $150. Give a polyurethane finish, and thats it. instructables
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Assemble The Doors/drawer Front
The doors and drawer front are now ready for assembly. All that is needed is wood glue. I chose Titebond 3 because it is formulated for exterior use and is water proof. Add glue to the tongue on one end of each rail. Then insert them into the groove on one stile. Next, insert the panel. Finally, add glue to the tongues on the other end of the rails and fit the last stile. One clamp across each joint is sufficient. These panels are meant to float because they are solid wood and need to be able to expand and contract. They are not to be glued in place.
Make The Panels For Doors/drawer
These panels are made the same as the base cabinet panels. Cut and mill the boards from pickets per the dimensions in the cut list. The door panel boards get glued together to make a solid panel. The cut list dimensions will result in panels that are too wide, so trim the finished panels to size, allowing a little room for expansion and contraction. Then do a final sanding on these panels before assembly.
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Prep Stock For Doors/drawer Front
The doors and drawer front are built using tongue and groove joinery with floating panels. The rails and stiles are made from 1-1/2 x 2-1/2 boards cut from 2x4s. Cut all of the boards to length per the cut list. Next, rip the rounded edge off one side of the board, then reset the fence for 2-1/2 and rip all the boards to final width. You will save two of the offcuts from the door stiles to be used as mounting strips later.
Build A Big Green Egg Grill Table
Get here free plans for building a green egg grill table step-by-step! The table will be a smart addition to your outdoor grilling space allowing you to quickly cook your grill, barbeque, and smoked dishes. The only purpose of this table is to help you keep on your BBQ parties! buildsomething
DIY Grill: Find these homemade outdoor grill ideas that are inexpensive and easy to follow for the summer so that you can enjoy outdoor grilled recipes in your backyard or balcony!
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Building The Frame For The Big Green Egg Table
The first step is to build the frame for the Big Green Egg Table. I have taken a lot of time to optimize the dimensions of the frame to minimize the table footprint, while still giving you the most storage under the egg. I chose to use 2×4 Cedar material as cedar holds up well in the outdoors. You can also use 2×4 pine material to save money if you are keeping your egg table under a canopy.
After you have the frame completed and mounted casters on the bottom of the frame, is is time to build the countertop and assemble the rest of the table..
Drill Pocket Holes In The Rails
The Kreg HD is the perfect tool for the joinery on this project. It is designed for structural outdoor applications. These are seriously beefy screws! This jig is compatible with bench top Kreg bases like the K3, K4, and K5, or can be used on its own. Each rail will get two pocket holes on each end. Pick the best faces of each board to show outwards and drill the holes on the opposite side. Offset the holes towards one edge on the rails with grooves to avoid drilling into the groove space. Be extra careful with the rail that has two grooves. I like to use a corded drill and vacuum when drilling a lot of pocket holes. It helps keep the bit cool and prevents the jig from clogging up. Check out Link 5 in the Extras for more info.
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Grill Table Plan Highlights
I have designed both Double Deluxe Big Green Egg or Kamado Joe tables to be easy to build and even more fun to use. Some of the highlights of these grill table plans are:
- Built out of lumber materials easily found at Big Box Stores or your local lumberyard
- Designed to be assembled in modular units, making it easy to build for the solo weekend warrior
- Center cabinet for tons of storage of fire starters, wireless temperature monitors, extra grill grates, etc.
- End Cabinets are designed for Slide-Out Double Trash Bins for trash, recyclables, and storing lump charcoal and wood chunks
Trim The Doors/drawer Front
The doors and drawer front will likely be too tight. At the table saw, trim a small amount from each side of the drawer front until it fits with a nice reveal. Next, trim a small amount from the top and bottom of each door until they fit well. Finally, trim the doors to width. Do NOT trim the jamb side because you will cut through the hinge mortises. Set the table saw blade to a 5° bevel and trim the inside edge of each door. If you have a right-tilt saw, the door front should face down, opposite for a left-tilt. The bevel is needed for the doors to clear each other when closing. Trim a small amount from each door until they close with an even reveal. You may have to install/uninstall the doors several times until they fit perfectly.
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Important Information* While Building The Big Green Egg Table:
Make sure to take proper safety precautions including always wearing gloves, goggles and a dust mask when you’re cutting or sanding. Before you get started, please read our info on safety, fasteners and building tips.
- Use fasteners and hardware that are in compliance with the manufacturers recommendations and the building codes for their intended use.
- If the Big Green Egg table will be placed in constant, repetitive or long periods of wet conditions, only stainless steel fasteners should be used.
*More information can be found on pages 34 and 35 of the downloadable DIY Big Green Egg table plans.
Note: Big Green Egg® is a registered trademark of Big Green Egg, Inc.
Before building, please consult our Terms of Use.